wesc :
I’ve since taken Trog for some drives with the front window open on some pretty bumpy dirt roads at 30mph No problem with the window slamming down. There’s quite a bit of sticktion on gas shocks that is difficult to overcome.

Hmm….but mechanically/geometrically, the different position of your window-side hinges could make things worse, even for the bending of the window itself, cq even before coming down (and possibly crashing into the window frame/bottom (although that also depends on damper friction, more than just stiction (possibly even progressively with speed? (that would be nifty; perhaps also an interesting detail to ask any supplier/manufacturer you get into contact with)).

Also not sure about the exact speeds I drove in the Gobi desert (more gravel & dirttracks than sand), but I don’t think any of my multiple airborn experiences were close to full speed….so 30mph might be enough for that kind of physics….;))
(the very last road in Mongolia I had that experience was while competing with a Citroen 2CV….afterwards the driver asked me whether that washboard-road was indeed so horribly rutted, or that he should start renovating his complete steering system before entering China….never ever before in that Citroen 2CV had he experienced the feeling as if the steering collumn would rise out of the dashboard and fall apart in his hands….:))
(and this is a vehicle that was promoted by Citroen in the 50′s as being suitable for farmers to transport their raw eggs with….:))
(if that one doesn’t cope with a road like this, nothing should….but a LWB Volvo 6×6 could still top it, at least in road stability….:))
(though my steering wheel also felt as it would fall apart….gruelling)

PS: be sure to put at least some elastic straps around the dashboard-compartiment on the right….otherwise all the crap in there comes flying into the face of the co-pilot, during those airborn manoeuvres….:))

i am rebuilding 2 of these vehicles and im having trouble finding parts for the servos.

can you order parts from lockheed?
how did you solve this problem?
WERRY nice project!

regards Daniel

Btw, before anyone wonders: yes, you can drive at full speed with the window(s) open; air speed can even be neatly controlled by opening/closing the side windows, from a (remarkably mild) breeze to full storm.
Or better: in hot/humid climates, you *must* drive with that window open, otherwise you will suffer a heat-stroke, with the additional heat radiating from below (engine+radiator)….:))

Note also that the front window is already vulnerable to large bumps in the ‘slightly’ open position (overturning the bottom clamps as ‘pusher’), because all the weight then hangs on the top hinges, instead of being tightened into the rubber seal….that is possibly a good thing of your shox, taking some of the load off the hinges (but at any major bump, that advantage is limited too….).

Alternative: originally Volvo had also a toothed elbow-joint available, apparently factory in some markets (Malaysia); the ones used in the Dodge Power Wagon W52 are supposed to fit….this would then also allow incremental/inbetween positions, more than just ‘unclamped’ & fully open.

Willem (having a very effective parking brake, you wouldn’t *have* to have working regular brakes of course….:)) Jan

So, your’s has been replaced within the last 3 decades, and shows only crap of 1 decade maximum….:))

Btw, mine was replaced with a similar ‘umbrella’ view-through filter; be sure to have several with you as spare, especially after changing/adding tanks, even more so when using tanks that were meant for diesel….gasoline can dissolve even military coatings, if designed for diesel….8-))

Btw2: if you are smart, you should also look for quick-disconnect & spill-free fuel line connectors, like seems common now in the motorbike industry….then you have a ‘hot-spare’ filter at hand any time (instead of fiddling and cursing above a hot engine and leaking gasoline….8-))

Oh, and never trust the filter visually, like I did….if in any doubt, with any symptom, throw out, they are cheap.
(keep the quick-disconnects of course….;))

-C-

http://www.theonion.com/content/radio_news/local_welder_suffering_from?utm_source=a-section

The 6×6 is slow — the drive ratio on nearly all is 7.56:1. I have a “fast axle” civilian version that is 7.01:1. At 4000RPM, my max speed is around 55-60mph. with the slower axles expect an even lower top speed. There are rumors of an add-on overdrive for the Volvo being in the works. Mogs are slow too.

I can’t really comment on the merits of the Volvo vs a Unimog 1300 b/c I’m not that familiar with mogs.

Are you on the volvo303 yahoo group? It’s the most active volvo group on the web.

you may also want to attend http://www.northwestmogfest.com . There you will get more than an earful about the merits and flaws of each vehicle.

hey
I also want to change the original horrible tyres and fit a BFGoodrich All-Terrain 315/75/R16 .The only thing I was not sure that can fit on the original Wheel 7.50-16 because I read that these tyres need a wider weel 8 or 9 – 16. If you can give me a confirmation that they work well
best regard
mario

Yes. Here’s my post to the yahoo group (to your same question)
Yup.

http://www.trog.us/2008/04/21/tires-and-wheels-done/

BFG Mud-Terrains also work.

Make sure you watch the guy who does the wheel balancing. BFG can be pretty sloppy in their molding and sometimes yield tires that aren’t balance-able no matter how much lead you put on the rim. Reject that tire if there’s too much lead or it doesn’t balance.

I have an annoying high-speed resonance (~55mph) that kicks up since I switched to BFG ATs that I think is due to a wheel not being balanced properly. The suspect wheel is *loaded* with lead balancing weights.

You will also have to modify the spare tire carrier on the rear door so the new wheels fit. I welded on a 3/4″ or so extension to the top of the carrier for the wheel to rest on.

-Wes

Keep it up!

It extends down about the same as the parking brake so clearance is approx the same, though mid-vehicle clearance isn’t as important as on the sides.

fwiw, I severely beat up the propane tank on my Eurovan when in baja. Eurovans have something like 5″ of clearance below the propane tank…
-W

Been following the progress for a while and its fun to to see all the inventions you put into this build.

Cheers

Also found this amusing b/c I have the opposite trouble. I can’t roll my jack under the car without first driving the wheels up onto some wood.

Nice tool fab.

I’m not sure they are needed. The delay between requesting fluid and the the spray is negligible. I haven’t had any problems w/ the pump losing “prime” (not sure if it’s self priming)

If you are interested, Thule makes some high rise rack supports that fit Trog. You could mount it with a cargo basket and it would be removable. I had thought of mounting 3 or 4 with the basket at the back end.

Check out the yahoo C3/TGB group:

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Volvo303/

lots of good info there.

-W

I what to buy a c303 and this is a great read.

Do you usualy post in some other board or forum?

Keep it up and greatings from Portugal!

I have a TGB1321 / C304 which I am doing a camper conversion on. I spent 6 months last year, working most weekends, stripping the cab and lower rear steel panels to bare metal, cutting out 10 areas of rust and welding in patches.

The result was terrible, the nice neat patches made the general appearance of the panels worse than they were when I started. Six months wasted effort!

The above was due to total lack of experience at doing this type of work and a refusal to see the truth.

I have just got the body finished having cut away both sides of the rear tub and made up replacement panels using 1.2mm galvanised sheet. Hopefully this will outlive me – I am damned if I will do it again.

Best of luck with Trog & congratulations on the baby

Regards

Dave

You were the right person to buy TROG, since you were able to fix it the right way.

Regards,

Paul

Remember BabyBounce game?

Excellent work fitting the Bilsteins, you will surely love them and wish you would of done this mod sooner! I never put them on a TGB (have yet to pick up mine unforntunately!!) but have used them on numerous landcruisers and the difference is night and day! I now sware by them!
Many thanks for the info as this is likely one of the first mods I will be doing…

Happy trails,

-Josh

structural improvement

9×33 = 3.666666 (x 2.06 = 7.553333:1)
9×31 = 3.444444 (x 2.06 = 7.095555:1)
11×32 = 2.90909 (x 2.06 = 5.992727:1)

I’m pretty sure I have the “medium speed” 7.095555 axles.

I can do 115km/h, but the engine (fan) howls!

http://www.portal-tek.com/index.php?go=home

You’ve really made quite a bit of progress. Looks like things are shaping up and you’ll have TROG ready for the road/off road trips in no time. You are doing all the things I had planned, but didn’t have time to do , or was dissuaded from doing.